Days of Grace: Ibo Island Lodge

A living breathing sanctuary tells the story of the Arab and Portuguese invasion on this pristine island off the coast of northern Mozambique. Inside the Quirimbas Archipelago lies the quiet Stone Town of Ibo Island. What was once a thriving port city of Arab and Portuguese trade, is now a quiet island home to 4,500 Kimwani people. It is also home to Ibo Island Lodge.

The 24 minute plane ride from the city of Pemba reveals turquoise seas, white sand and tiny primitive villages dotting the coastline. Four local children sit inside the open structure that is the Ibo Airport. They have shells to sell and ancient Portuguese coins in their palms. The Ibo Island Lodge Land Rover collects us quickly and within minutes I am sipping fruit juice from a champagne glass. The welcome is a little rehearsed but well performed. The rooms are large and bright and nicely decorated with locally made furniture and imported Indian silk drapes. Bathrooms have dual sinks, an oversized claw foot tub and open cement shower.

Arab and Portuguese influence is immediately noticed. Their structures stand grand and tall against the unassuming Swahili style architecture of the Kimwani people. Bright red clay tile roofs, intricate wrought iron and huge verandas tower over one room huts with thatch or galvanized roofs. The hotel’s large wooden dhow departs immediately for the sandbank. I grab my straw hat and one unread magazine completely unaware of the beauty I was about to encounter.

Arriving on a wooden dhow with a large white sail make the entrance to this white sandbank even more sublime. The seas surrounding are clear and perfect for snorkeling. The captain becomes the cook and an elaborate table is set underneath grand Bedouin-style canvas tents complete with linen napkins. Grilled shrimp served over pasta with roasted vegetables. Somehow while I was swimming facedown in the Indian ocean, three Mozambican sailors prepared a lunch fit for a queen.

The remainder of my stay felt as if I were royalty. The meals grew more elaborate and the staff did their very best to anticipate my needs. I woke up most mornings before 5am to play tennis on the islands’ dilapidated court that doubles as an evening discotheque. There I felt like royalty who had arrived 500 years too late. I arrived early to the 7am breakfast complete with Ibo coffee brought by the Arabs centuries ago.

Lodge Rates include all meals. Breakfast includes cereals, fruit, yogurt, a daily item from the bakery and a Chef’s Special of eggs in a variety of ways or French Toast. Lunch is often served on the sandbank or on the back lawn by the pool and include dessert. A five course meal is served at 7pm on the rooftop. Lobster, crab, and/or fish are always on the menu.

Guided tours of the island, her forts and ruins are offered daily. The tour guide’s broken English left me with lots of unanswered questions about the island’s history and even now, Google leaves me with still little understanding of really happened on this tiny island so long ago. The ruins reveal dark stone prisons and ports of slave exportation. The stories now left up to my imagination. Once grand architecture now stands less grand, dilapidated and abandoned, only inhabited by goats peeking out of open windows. The place feels a little haunted. I can only assume that it is.

The Kimwani people are friendly and familiar with sharing their island with invaders. They don’t seem to mind. I spent one evening at a local soccer game. Admission was 25 mets ($1). Each time the home team would score, local women would run to the fence surrounding the field and throw their babies up in the air, cheering in high pitched squeals. The “concession stand”, a small wooden table with boiled eggs and lollipops.

The Silversmith artists skills of the 17th century remain there today offering their handiwork and hours of labor for a song. There are three small shops where purchases can be made and buyers can watch the entire process. Artists used to melt down old coins but now the Ibo Foundation provides them with silver, albeit low quality. It is still a must buy- a rare, unique, stunning item that that not many people on earth have in their jewelry box.

Four days here was not enough. I didn’t even have time to go on the dhow safari or canoe inside the mangrove forests. I didn’t comb the sands for porcelain china or sea glass, but got to see a little girl’s stash who has been living on the island and collecting treasures for the past four years. I practically washed up on this island six years ago and was struck by her beauty, majesty and haunting story. I knew I would be back again. It was all just as enchanting as before and I can only hope this time will not be my last.

“The lodge is the brain child of owners Fiona and Kevin Record - but was built by the people of Ibo and is formerly a community tourism project. It is the largest employer on the island and economically effects the entire population. Their concept was that the lodge committed to providing employment and training to as many local Ibo people as possible. So alongside the building phase, training in English literacy and hospitality also commenced and the majority of the lodge staff were sourced from the construction site and trained. The result is a great sense of pride amongst the people of Ibo and the lodge plays a huge part in island life. Ibo's regeneration through eco and responsible tourism is the lodge's priority and therefore this is a place where your visit really does make a difference”. www.iboislandlodge.com