Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Surf's up!

The first time I went surfing, I lost sleep the night before. I was full of nervous excitement of what dawn patrol and standing top of a wave would bring. The ride out to the beach didn't settle my fears. With boards strapped on top of the little black Subaru and Master Surfer, Shelley Merrick giving me instructions, "watch the nose, it'll pop up and hit you in the face", "how well do you swim?", "watch for rocks". Fear and anxiety overcame giddy excitement. I think I was more nervous about just looking like an idiot than being eaten by a shark, I wanted to surf with grace. I know I got really quiet all the way out to the beach, our boards underneath our arms. We paddled out, watched the waves. I got on my stomach, looked over my shoulder and watched the sets roll over and over. When the right set came along, Shelley yelled, "Go!". I paddled with all my might, hands pushing on the board to keep it from popping up, quickly jumped into position, and stood. I SURFED! Instantly ready to paddle right back out and go again.
This series of emotions has been a constant in my life. Anxiety and uncertainty met by sheer delight. This is how I feel. I am about to jump into a deep end of so many unknowns. I am full of expectancy and angst and joy and delight. I have so much going on. I will share full details...soon! It's going to be a wild ride.

No comments:

Post a Comment